Travels in Nepal by Theresa Kroll

J M

One year ago, Homma Sensei returned from a trip to Nepal in support of A.H.A.N. and shared many fascinating stories of his travels. He vowed to return the following year, and invited his students to join him. As our plane descended on Kathmandu, we got our first glimpse of the Himalayas. Through the windows we saw snow capped Mount Everest. We felt weary; tired from traveling a very long time, but the sight of the majestic mountains brightened our spirits and brought us renewed energy. Now we were excited to begin this adventure.

Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by a party of our local hosts. Garlands of marigolds were placed around our necks as we said our first hellos, “Namaste” to this delightful group who were soon to become newfound friends.

The trip from the airport to our hotel was an introduction to the colorful sights, sounds, and aromas of the streets of Kathmandu. The narrow lanes were jammed with cars, scooters, bicycles, motorcycles, rickshaws, vendor’s carts, cows, goats, dogs, and pedestrians! Horns honked incessantly, near miss collisions were commonplace, while everyone at once seemed to have the right of way. It appeared pure chaos, but amazingly, traffic flowed. And, we did not witness one single episode of “road rage”.

In the hotel garden courtyard we became acquainted with our local guides. And we became acquainted with Nepali tea, a warm sweet milky drink we would come to enjoy daily. We also met instructors and students from the Karate dojo where Homma Sensei would conduct an Aikido seminar over the course of the next three days.

Later we visited Bouddhanath, one of the most sacred places of the Buddhists. The large Stupa has a pair of Buddha’s watchful eyes painted on the tower. As is the custom, we walked around the Stupa three times, along with hundreds of local worshipers and monks. It was a wonderful introduction to a part of the cultural heritage and spirituality of Nepal.

Afterwards we enjoyed a feast of local dishes while being entertained by musicians and beautifully costumed dancers performing traditional folk dances at a restaurant with our gracious local hosts. We returned to the hotel happily exhausted after a very full first day of our trip.

Early the following morning we traveled to the sports stadium where Homma Sensei would conduct a seminar that would introduce Aikido to Nepal. Here hundreds of students diligently practice Karate and other martial arts. The many small dojo spaces surrounding the stadium were already filled with students. They are serious and sincere in their practice. The Karate students were very receptive to Homma Sensei’s lessons, and eager to try techniques that were new to them, and quite different from their usual training. Soon a large group of curious spectators gathered to peer in the dojo door. The seminar was off to a great start! The following day, the seminar moved outdoors to a large open area of the stadium where Homma Sensei demonstrated how bokken and jo movement directly correlates to open hand techniques.

In addition to the Aikido seminar, another purpose of our trip to Nepal was an A.H.A.N. project to benefit the students of the Choeling Monastery School. Students of Aikido Nippon Kan in Denver generously donated hundreds of pounds of clothing and school supplies which we delivered to the monks at the Choeling School. Smiles lit up the faces of the young students as boxes of donated items were unpacked. Later, we were honored by a special prayer ceremony in their holy temple.

The following day we toured their Buddhist Learning Center high up in the hills. There students are provided sacred education along with modern education. Most of their food is grown in the gardens the students tend on the premises, and we were treated to a delicious vegetarian buffet lunch.

In the days that followed we visited many Buddhist and Hindu holy places, ancient cities, temples, monuments and World Heritage Sites. We experienced places of great historical, cultural, and religious significance in the Kathmandu Valley.

In the holy area of Pashupati on the banks of the Bagmati River we witnessed a somber and powerfully moving ceremony of preparing the dead for cremation. We were told the deceased was a beloved school teacher, and all of his uniformed students were in attendance. In poignant contrast, we next visited an ancient city brimming with new life. It was time for Spring births and we saw two kid goats only a few hours old that had just found their legs for the very first time. Along the paths we sighted several new litters of puppies, and a hen guarding her tiny baby chicks. Young children in bright blue uniforms were leaving school for the day and were playfully curious about the American tourists wandering their town.

Earlier this year at a Friday night weapons class, Homma Sensei used an analogy to illustrate the proper method of swinging a bokken with ease. He talked about a man whose job it was to make gravel. Every day he swung his hammer, breaking large rocks into small pieces. He swung the hammer naturally and without tension. His hammer was an extension of his arm, an extension of his body. While traveling in the Kathmandu countryside, Homma Sensei instructed our driver to pull the bus to the side of the road. Sensei’s lesson of the gravel maker came to life before our eyes. Here were men, women and children working in a field of rocks, swinging their hammers rhythmically to make gravel.

Traveling to Nepal and India with Homma Sensei and the group from Nippon Kan was an amazing experience. These are just a few of many memories. I am grateful to our wonderful local guides in Kathmandu and New Delhi. And I am grateful to Homma Sensei for making this experience possible. Namaste!

Written by Theresa Kroll
March 31st, 2006